Wine Jaunts
Food, too!
Articles below were written within the last year, unless otherwise noted.
Après Theatre: Cupcakes and Wine at Granada Bistro in SLO
After seeing Crazy Heart at the venerable old Palm Theater in SLO, a friend and I set out to find a little bistro rumored to serve wine and gourmet cupcakes.
Located behind Barnes & Noble at 1126 Morro Street, this delightful nook has the charming ambience of a French neighborhood cafe′, where Mama and Papa dined with Oncle Antoine and Tante Celeste until the Germans marched around the Maginot Line.
The bar at Granada Bistro
Although there is no outside seating, unless you count the upholstered deacon’s bench, we were seated at the front window, which opens wide onto the street.
Scattered on the tables are old books for your reading pleasure. And you’d do well to open them, since they are actually the menus. I had to laugh at Karen, who appeared to be studying a Dick, Jane and Sally Reader, while I proudly perused The Poetry of the Brownings.
Choosing among the offerings was tres difficile: small plates, paninis, homemade soups, special desserts, and the gourmet cakes in a cup.
After consulting with the knowledgeable hostess/server, Marilee, I confidently ordered a glass of Chateau Doisy Grand Cru Sauternes ($10 for 2 ounces), paired with a Salted Caramel Cupcake made by Amy’s Cupcakes – a vanilla bean cake with towering butter cream frosting, drizzled with caramel and a taste of sea salt ($3).
(L) Sauternes & Salted Caramel Cupcake
(R) Monasterall & Chocolate Merlot Cupcake
Karen went for the Chocolate Merlot cupcake – ganache-covered dark chocolate cake with a hint of wine. It was paired with a glass of Juan Gil Monasterall, the Spanish version of the better-known Mourvedre, a Rhone varietal.
Karen also tried the Spicy Cilantro Mushroom Soup, which is how we learned that Marilee is also the cook. The recipe called for a cup of cream, but she decided the soup had enough flavor and body without the dairy. Karen couldn’t have agreed more. “Even without the cream, it still tastes very rich, almost Thai-like with a touch of pepper,” she said.
Earning 4.5 out of 5 stars in reviews by customers on Yelp, this little gem of a wine bar is open Mon-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11:00 p.m. and Sun. 9:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m.
Sweetheart Stroll: More than Romance
Atascadero’s annual Sweetheart Stroll, held each year in celebration of Valentine’s Day, is good for more than romance.
Love is great and all, but it's more fun to investigate all the fun little nooks and crannies in downtown Atascadero.
Sweethearts Strolling down Traffic Way
Although the Carlton Hotel restaurant is closed, we found a new one next door, the Haven Wine Bistro on El Camino. My pork tenderloin sandwich ($11.99) was nestled in a ciabatta bun, alongside a generous spread of apple chutney.
The wine list features better local wines, including J Dusi, Ancient Peaks, Clayhouse, Dubost and J Lohr. On Friday nights, you may find local performing artists singing and playing here.
Another discovery made on our rounds was Nature’s Touch Nursery & Harvest, where a basket of fresh local chanterelle mushrooms caught my eye. Located behind the Carlton on Traffic Way, this gourmet market specializes in local, organic produce. They also offer an array of locally produced dairy products, fruits, nuts, bread and meat.
Nature's Touch bounty
On the opposite side of the block is the veddy British Tea Trolly restaurant and store at 5932 Entrada. Not only can you stock up on authentic British teas, but you may dine on The Queen’s Tea from 1:30 pm to closing, served by the gracious owner, Wendy.
For $18 per person, you will enjoy English sandwiches, scones, lemon curd, Devonshire Cream from England, a selection of sweets, and a pot of tea in one of the dainty dining rooms or on the charming patio.
Tea Trolly greeter
They are open Wednesday through Friday, 11.30am to 3.30pm; Saturday to 4pm.
It’s worth a walk across the village green, known as the Sunken Gardens for some reason, to visit the Atascadero History Museum. Located in the Colony House, it showcases artifacts that have been in storage since the 2003 San Simeon Earthquake damaged the city's Rotunda Building, where the collection was originally displayed.
Inside Colony House
The display includes a reading room containing newspaper archives dating back to the early 1900s. New to the collection is founding father E.G. Lewis' hundred-year-old oak dining set.
The Historical Society plans to move the collection back to the Rotunda Building as soon as that Taj Mahal-like structure is restored. Meanwhile, the museum is open Wednesday from 1 to 4 p.m.
History Museum visitor
The Sweetheart Stroll also featured some 20 wineries, with tasting tables scattered along the route. It’s always fun to see old friends such as J Lohr and Castoro Cellars, as well as meet new ones like Vines on the Marycrest, Venteux Vineyards, Ranchita Canyon, Ambyth Estate and Daou Vineyards.
Stormy Weather Comfort: Hot soup & sandwiches & the best of Bordeaux
With a January Pacific storm pounding the area, only a few brave souls were out and about.
But I’d promised to meet my wine mentor, Mike Stepanovich, who was traveling from Bakersfield to Paso Robles.
I figured if he could make that trip, I could survive the 10-minute drive to Paso Robles to meet him and his wife, Carol, at Artisan for lunch.
Artisan's Sticky Toffee Cheesecake with Kumquats
At least it was easy to park! And the bowls of house-made Seafood Chowder ($8) and a special Charter Oak Beef & Vegetable Soup warmed us. A good wife, Carol urged Mike to try her chowder.
She’d even saved a large clam for him. “It’s so big, I almost named it,” she said.
On Mike’s recommendation, I ordered the Cuban Sandwich, with roast pork loin, country ham, emmentaler cheese, sliced pickles and sweet potato fries ($12). Santa Cachucha, it was good!
Another guest who joined us, Linda, was pleased with her Poached Shrimp Club, with apple wood bacon, caper thyme aioli, and old bay potato chips ($14). In fact, when Carol saw the homemade chips, she asked to substitute them for her fries.
No problem. Our waitress scooped up her plate and returned it in seconds with a mound of the house-made chips. Even at lunch, you can’t beat the service at Artisan. Our water glasses were unobtrusively kept filled and the server checked on us frequently.
Although Artisan has a great wine list, we skipped it since we were heading out Airport Road to J. Lohr Wines. And were we glad we had left plenty of room for trying their outstanding wines.
Although J. Lohr is a fairly large winery, they give their winemaker the freedom to experiment with boutique French-style wines, made in very small amounts and sold only at the tasting room, explained Bevelina, their tasting room manager.
We decided as long as we were on the premises, we should take advantage of this opportunity to taste their Cuvée Series, which is based on the practices of the Grand Cru Chateaux from Pauillac, St. Emilion and Pomerol.
J. Lohr's Bordeaux-style Cuvée Series
We sipped their 06 vintages, called Pau, St.E. and Pom, all blends made from the famous Bordeaux varietals. My favorite was the St.E, which goes for $50-53 depending on the vintage and whether you are buying in the tasting room or on the Web. It’s produced from 58% Cabernet Franc, with the remainder comprised of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot.
The Pom, Mike and Linda’s first choice, is mainly Merlot-based (62%) with Cab Sauvignon (31%) and tiny amounts of Petit Verdot and Malbec ($50). The Pau ($50) is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), with some Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Mike wanted to try the Tower Road Petite Sirah. The 06 ($37) is distinguished by a very spicy cinnamon bite. “We call it liquid cinnamon,” Bev said. Linda bought a bottle to pair with a spicy duck dish she makes.
The unusual cinnamon note is due to the inclusion of a small percent of Valdiguié, Mike explained, a red wine grape grown primarily in southern France. Since I love Petite Sirah but I don’t cook duck, I grabbed a bottle of the 07 ($35), which is blended with a little Grenache and Syrah.
Mike mentioned that he had recently brought out a 1990 VS1 J. Lohr Cab from his wine cellar. “It was just delicious,” he said. “The fruit was still very intense and fresh tasting. The acid was very balanced. The whole wine was very harmonious.”
Good to know, although It’s not likely that my Petit Sirah will still be around my wine cellar in 20 years.
Oysters are one of the few seafoods you can count on not having been resuscitated from a frozen state.
And Morro Bay is a great place to sample them several ways, right on the docks.
We chose Tognazzini’s Dockside patio and seafood market at the north end of the Embarcadero that runs along the waterfront.
Although there is an indoor restaurant, too, we took advantage of the sunny day to sit under an umbrella right by the water.
The Dockside typically features a live band that attracts music lovers, as well as pet lovers, who bring tiny Yorkies in purses and butterball golden retriever puppies who nap in the sun.
The thoughtful owners even furnish safety harnesses you can hook your pets onto to prevent their taking a plunge over the railing.
The barbequed oysters at Dockside compare quite favorably with the highly touted barbequed oysters at Drago’s in New Orleans. “Barbeque” is a misnomer, since the oysters are actually drowned in butter and garlic, not a BBQ sauce, and grilled on the half shell.
I added one for $1.50 to my order of fried oysters, which comes with an enormous serving of fries. Both versions of the crustacean were excellent, sweet and meaty.
Although we skipped wine at this meal, there is nothing that goes better with sweet oysters than a flinty French Chablis. Next best option would be a dry domestic equivalent, such as a stainless-steel-aged California Chardonnay.
After lunch, we strolled the harbor, wandering the boardwalk and poking around nooks and crannies. Many of the shops along the Embarcadero are a cut above the touristy t-shirt and taffy places hattypically infest seaside hamlets.
Best Kept Secrets captured our attention with their upscale collection of bling-crusted t-shirts sporting humorous wine-related sayings, from the classic “It’s 5:00 somewhere” to “At my age, I need glasses” -- with three filled wine glasses underneath, of course.
Our vote for best buy, though, was an array of engaging whimsical animal sculptures, which turned out to be plant holders – offered at several shops.
To work off your fish and chips meal, rent a kayak to explore the bay and estuary, or pedal around in a surrey. Saving your energy for a walk out to the big rock? Try a mini-sub ride or harbor cruise.
If your are still happy and the kids need to let off some steam, hike the level pathway for an up close and personal experience with Morro Bay’s most imposing landmark, the last of the visible Seven Sisters – a string of ancient volcanic peaks that march from San Luis Obispo into the Pacific Ocean.
Many days you’ll find surfers catching waves on the north side of the rock. Even if the dudes aren’t putting on a show, the sea birds and ground squirrels will be.
Tapas and Spanish wine sounded like just the culinary adventure we were in the mood for on a gorgeous fall day in Paso Robles.
Not far from the historic San Miguel Mission is the 10th Street Basque Cafe, also known as the 10th Street Vineyard Cafe. Owners Caren and Dallas Holt serve family-style price-fixe’, multi-course Basque feasts during the evenings on weekends.
But it was the favorable reviews for the tapas menu served at lunch that drew us up the 101. As we mulled over the menu, chef Dallas, whose mother was Spanish Basque, stopped by to make suggestions. After selecting the homemade artisan bread with tapenade, stuffed mushrooms, beef in orange sauce, we were debating about adding the potatoes.
“Best potatoes in the word,” he said simply. We decided the chef should know and added them to our order.
As we sat out front under sunny blue skies, watching Dallas wrestle with a hunk of beef on his outdoor grill and listening to the Israeli family at the next table enjoy their meal, Guadalupe Lazo of Christian Lazo Wines strolled out from the wine tasting bar inside.
She sat down to chat with us, explaining how she and her husband Christian bought an ailing vineyard in 2002, with the idea of restoring it to good health.
While we munched on the bread and olive tapenade -- which wasn’t over-salted as many of them are -- Lupe brought us a glass of each of their 06 Zinfandels, made by the same winemaker in the same manner from fruit harvested in the same year ... but from separate vineyards.
The difference between the two wines will definitely make you a believer in terroir – and micro-climates! One was a characteristically outgoing Zin ($27), full of fruit and spice. Its shyer cousin was lighter, almost Pinot Noir-like ($20).
Both were big enough to handle the very garlicky mushrooms and the citrus beef dish.
When the lovely potato dish finally arrived, we realized Dallas had saved the best for last. Chunks of white and sweet potatoes were smothered in a velvety but robust sauce that was not just this best in the world but out of this world. “Indian spices?” guess Karen. “The Basque equivalent of marscapone cheese?” I proffered.
But Dallas ain’t saying. He claims he wouldn’t even tell a New York Times reporter who asked for the recipe. “You’re all going to have to wait for my cookbook,” he teased.
But since the tab for this feast and wine set us back only about $15 each, I think I’ll let Dallas do the cooking.
Still in search of Spanish wine, we headed east into the picturesque wine country north of the Paso Robles airport. Fluttering flags at the top of the hill prompted us to turn into Locatelli Vineyards, a winery Dallas had recommended.
Alas, no Spanish wine. In fact, we had apparently gone the wrong way over the Alps, so to speak, and into Swiss-Italian winemaking territory, where the vineyards and winery are named after Cesare Locatelli, great grandfather of proprietor Louis Locatelli.
His wife, Raynette, served us a bright Sauvignon Blanc ($14) more evocative of lemon than the grapefruit taste I associate with the grape, and a demi-sweet Muscat Canelli ($15) so redolent of orange blossoms that a few drops on your pulse points would drive the bees insane. I grabbed a bottle of the Muscat to have with Asian spring rolls we make with a spicy dipping sauce.
Along with their eclectic red blends ($26-28) and estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($22), they plan to begin adding some Italian wines this spring.
“I know I read there’s some Spanish wine around here somewhere,” I muttered, thumping the map as we cruised through the scenic back country. As Silver Horse Winery came into view, I shouted, “Hola!” -- remembering how their ’08 Albarino ($27) had snagged my attention at the Paso Rotary Wine Cookoff in August.
But, as with so many of the great local wines, I hadn’t been able to find it in any of the grocery or wine stores. Even here in wine country, the California palate (think Cab and Chard) controls what you find on the shelf.
The Albarino was just as bright, floral and fruity as I had remembered – which isn’t always the case when you’ve been imbibing for three hours at a festival.
S’orse makes an ‘07 Tempranillo, too, a red Spanish varietal which they use as the base for their ’06 Big Easy ($30) along with 25% Cab and 25% Grenache.
And so San Miguel and El Paso de Robles slowly begin to return to their viticultural roots, when the first vines were brought over by Spanish monks who needed wine for ceremonial purposes, gracias a Dios.
.Back to Top
Clavo Cellars owner and winemaker Neil Roberts can’t wait to get his hands on the old-vine Chenin Blanc and Cabernet grapes he found growing with abandon in a non-working vineyard he is about to revive in Paso Robles.
Although Chenin Blanc fell from grace due to its association with the cheap, palate-poisoning French Colombard jug wine, he’s excited by what he might be able to do with it.
Clavo Cellars Winemaker Neil Roberts
He also wants to try his hand at some of the other lesser-known old world varietals, such as the Spanish Albarino and Vermatino from Sardinia.
Experimenting is easy for Neil, who is a professional grower. He sources his fruit from the 36 different vineyards he tends, which range in size from a back yard to large ranches, availing himself of the best and most interesting berries.
Neil’s non-conforming nature impacts more than just which fruit he works with. Clavo wines buck the current trend to nudge alcohol content up and up, a restraint much appreciated by those who like to enjoy two glasses of wine without sliding under the table. Clavo wines average a moderate 13.5 to 14.5 percent alcohol.
He also keeps them quite dry, with zero residual sugars.
Clavo Cellars tasting room patio in Templeton
You’ll find these food-friendly wines at many of the better restaurants and bars in the Paso area – including Villa Creek, Bistro Laurent, Vinoteca Wine Bar and the Pony Club at the Hotel Cheval - as well as McPhee’s Restaurant in Templeton and the Sea Venture hotel in Pismo Beach.
And if you’re in Vegas, you can order Clavo’s Petite Sirah ($28) at the fabulous Bellagio Hotel, or at least you will as soon as the 06 shipment arrives there, since the 05 is sold out.
Clavo’s new tasting room on the main street in Templeton is a cheerful place to sample wines with innovative food pairings, such as the pumpkin-pie white chocolate they commissioned to offer with their 08 Grenache Blanc ($28). The tasty morsels are custom made for Clavo right across the street at Hermann’s Chocolate Lab, which is also developing a lemon cream pie white chocolate for them.
Although the Petite Sirah is their bester seller, their 05 proprietary blend Collusion ($28) is a standout wine. You will cry for this wine, crafted with 60% Argentine Malbec, which makes it a hard-driving wine.
But you’d expect that from a winery whose name means “nail” in Spanish. The story goes that when vineyard workers first heard the name “Neil,” they thought that his name was “Nail.” So “Clavo” he became.
Bayou Country or Wine Country?
You feel like you are in Louisiana bayou country as you leisurely cruise under the moss-draped trees gracefully arching over winding Vineyard Drive.
But then you see vineyards instead of alligators and realize you are in Paso Robles, not New Orleans.
Nonetheless, we are ready to let the good times roll, since this is a jaunt to celebrate Linda's birthday and all three of us are eager to sample the Bordeaux and Rhone blends -- sometimes they even throw in a bit of Zinfandel-- at a new tasting room recently opened by Hearthstone Vineyard & Winery.
Linda Kristenson & Karen Skole at Hearthstone Tasting Room
Their 06 Slipstone ($25) red blend was a Gold Sweeps winner at the San Diego International Wine Competition this year, where their 07 Pearl Paso Robles ($23) took a silver medal with its bright Viognier-Roussanne fruit.
The Slipstone is about ¾ Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre, Zinfandel composing the remainder of this plummy red. Winemaker Paul Ayers recommends pairing it with the local BBQ speciality, a tri-tip sandwich. Pick up the best tri-tip around at Firestone Grill in downtown San Luis Obispo, and enjoy it with the Slipstone on the lovely tree-shaded patio at Hearthstone’s tasting room. The view is better than dessert.
Don’t overlook their 05 Profundo ($30), a big red made from Cabnernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Cab Franc.
Karen grabbed a bottle of the 06 Grenache, typically a blending grape, but more winemakers are now letting this Rhone varietal stand on its own.
Open 11am - 5pm, Thursday-Monday, Hearthstone is located at 5070 Vineyard Drive, just a few miles north of Highway 46 west. They charge a $7 tasting fee for six tastes, but it also includes a cool-looking stemless Riedel crystal glass.
As the boutique and family winemakers often do, Paul recommended that we drop by near neighbor Jada Vineyard & Winery. He then put his money where his mouth is by showing up at their tasting room right behind us, where he was warmly greeted by our hostess! “Oh, look, Paul’s here for his hug,” she said, smiling.
But hugs aren't all Jada offers. They serve perfectly paired cheeses with their wines for only $10 for both wine and cheese, and half of the fee will be applied to your wine purchase.
This is a nice touch, especially with the heavily Cabbed blends whose tannins need protein to soften them. Since so many Americans drink wines as a cocktail, having a few cubes of the right cheese enhances the happy hour experience for Cab drinkers.
Jada is another Paso winery that has fared well in competitions recently. At this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, they won two gold medals for their 06 Hell's Kitchen (sold out), a Rhone blend, and for the 05 Mirror (06 is $38), a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
They offer Italian Piave Vecchio cheese with Hell’s Kitchen, and Wisconsin Grand Queso with the 06 Mirror. Like all their cheese, these two are made from cow’s milk. The hostess explained that the goat’s milk cheeses just seem to overpower the wines.
Their 06 Jack of Hearts, a Cab-Petit Verdot-Merlot blend ($42), is barrel-aged for 16 months, then aged another year in the bottle. It is cleverly named for winery owner Jack, a cardiac surgeon!
A recent jaunt to the Russian River Valley led me to search for eating establishments in a little river hamlet called Guerneville, about 30 minutes west of Santa Rosa.
After asking around and scouring Web sites such as Yelp and TripAdivisor, we settled on Boon Eat + Drink at 16248 Main St. Another eatery called Pat's Diner garnered high praise, but it appeared that Chef Patrick is only in residence Thursday-Sunday evenings, and we were in search of lunch.
The best description of Boon’s comes from a Yelp reviewer, who said: “This place might get 4 stars in Berkeley or SF because there's so much competition, but it deserves 5 stars in Guerneville.”
On foot, I located the tiny bistro by searching for the street address. The miniscule sign visible from the sidewalk isn’t much help, being just an understated round orange dot with a “b.” Better to look for the highly visible Rexall drug store directly across the street.
Since I arrived early, around 11:30 a.m., I was allowed to choose the primo seating in the open portico at the front of the restaurant, even though my party was still parking their car. So I decided to order an appetizer, the truffle fries which had caught my eye on Yelp.
The merest whiff of truffle graces the fries, which comes with two dipping sauces, a garlic aioli and wonderfully fresh-tasting concoction made of sundried tomatoes and olive oil.
Not only were the wait staff very friendly, but even the postman smiled and said hi to me -- both on his way in and on his way out! Being right on the sidewalk, I people-watched and enjoyed my truffle fries till my guests arrived.
Two of us ordered the panella salad, with chicken, feta, fresh corn and cherry tomatoes. It was a bit bland. The burger my brother ordered looked great, which he confirmed. It was accompanied by homemade herbed potato chips.
Yelp reviewers recommend the “Halibut with Gigante beens,” flank steak, beet salad with cheese and nectarines, rosemary shortbread cookies, and fresh peach cobbler. Menu items that looked intriguing were the savory bread pudding & greens (or have the sweet version with creme anglaise) and the Isreali couscous with apricots and currents.
Boon’s is affiliated with the Boon hotel+ spa http://www.boonhotels.com, which sports a garden that supplies some of the herbs and produce for the restaurant. The restaurant has its own Web site, but it was still under construction as of this writing. http://www.eatatboon.com/
If you're just out for a smoothie or espresso, try the Coffee Bazaar on Armstrong-Woods Street, just off the main drag. This open air nook also offers ice cream, salads, pastries and even wireless Internet. Best of all, it's co-located with a used bookstore operated by a nice gentleman and his dog.
Do note that many of the restaurants in the area are open on Thursday-Sunday.
Before we leave Guerneville, let me mention the little Five and Dime Store just a few doors down from Boon's, which my 11 year-old niece and nephew enjoyed. Where else can kids spend $1 and have so much fun? I also picked up a few choice gag gifts, including a "tatoo sleeve" for my preppie future son-in-law.
Happily, unlike the stark restaurant scene, there are a number of good wineries to choose from near Guerneville, many right along or not far off River Road, the main road from Santa Rosa.
My tasting adventure began with the Korbel Champagn Vineyard, just a few miles east of G-ville right on River Road. Since my time was limited and I’d read that the tour focused more on historic equipment than champagne making, I decided to skip it, although many folks were lined up for it. There is also a garden tour offered a couple of days a week.
Unlike Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo, where many wineries offer free tasting, the wineries in this area seem prone to charge for tasting, some a hefty fee which isn’t even applied to purchases as most are in the Paso area. But Korbel does offer four free tastes.
In fact, I wound up tasting around six champagnes and several other wines. Usually a brut drinker, I nonetheless enjoyed their Moscato Frizzante sparkling wine, luscious and sweet like the Muscat grape from which it is made. Similar to most champagnes, it on toward the lower end of the alcohol scale at 11/5%, which means two glasses aren’t likely to put you under the table -- or under the host, as Dorothy Parker or someone once said -- as most Zins and increasing number of other wines will do.
Alas, to try this limited-release old-world Muscat cuvee, you’ll need to either join their wine club or buy it in their tasting room, where it sells for $21.99. www.korbel.com
A few miles further east don’t blink, or you’ll miss the dip in the road that is the turnoff to Westside Road, a pretty winding lane that takes you to the top of ridge, where you will find the prestigious Gary Farrell Vineyards and Winery on the left.
Gary Farrell is one of the original Pinot Noir producers in the area, having its own label since 1982.
I opted for the $15 Limited Release Tasting, which included a delightfully restrained 07 Chardonnay, two 06 Pinot Noirs (one from Carneros and two from the Russian River Valley), and an 04 complex red blend called Encounter, made from 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines range from $38 for the chard to $65 for the blend.
I bought the Carneros Ramal Vineyard Pinot, which had some unusual spice notes from the toasty oak used in the barrel aging. It sells for $50.
I also tasted a young 06 Rochioli-Allen Vineyard, their hallmark wine. Earthy, spicy and fruity, it should be decanted if it’s drunk now, advises Tomi, one of the tasting room staff.
She also told me that they aren’t producing any more Bordeaux wines but are creating a couple of Zinfandels each year, which have an alcohol content that is unusually low for Zins, around 13%. She explained that they hand select their berries, discarding the “raisins” that are high in sugar (and more sugar means more alcohol).
You can order all these wines now from concierge@GaryFaffellWines.com.
Near the eastern end of River Road, just before Highway 101, is the historic red hop barn that houses the Martinelli Vineyards tasting room. You pay the $5 tasting fee as you enter, then head to the back for your tasting.
The first thing you notice is that they don’t filter or fine their wines. Eh, so what. These techniques are used more for marketing purposes than for improving taste.
The tasting room rep did suggest that if the cloudy appearance or sediment detract from your enjoyment, you can decant the wines before pouring, or at least let the bottle stand upright for awhile.
The most interesting part of this visit was comparing two wines made by the same winemaker, using the same techniques and grape varietal, but with fruit from two different vineyards. What a difference the vineyard makes. (Yes, they were from two different years but the climate is relatively stable.)
I sampled the 06 Woolsey Road Chardonnay alongside the 05 Zio Toney Ranch Chardonnay. The Woolsey had a bright citrus character. Robert Parker scored it at 90 points, and it sells for $36.
The 05 Zio Tony Ranch Chard tasted fuller, with a orange peel finish. It goes for $50.
Another fun wine is their 06 Vigneto di Evo Zinfandel, crafted from grapes grown in a tiny vineyard right there on the old family homestead on River Road. So rich and fruity, this Zin tastes almost like a Port. At 17.2%, it has almost as much alcohol as a fortified wine, too. But since I’ll probably serve it as a dessert wine after dinner, it shouldn’t pack such a wallop. I picked up a bottle for $30.
For a Syrah with no white pepper, try their 05 Terra Felice at $45 a bottle.
Complement your wine with farmers market specialties
When you want a break from wine tasting, try one of SLO's many farmers markets, each with its own charm and character, held morning, noon and night around the county.
One of our favorites is in held in shady, pleasant Templeton City Park at Sixth and Crocker streets, open Saturdays 9am - 12:30 pm.
The park is surrounded by historic homes, including Penny's Heirloom restaurant, where you can dine on the southern-style wrap-around porch.
A colorful array of vendor stalls offers everything from purple carrots to vegetarian somosas. Besides the freshly harvest local produce, you can buy prepared foods: homemade breads and pastries, Mexican dishes, coffee and more.
There are usually a few craft stalls, offering handmade knitted items, jewelry, and more. And local musicians entertain with fiddles, harps, and guitars.
The Thursday night farmers market in downtown San Luis Obispo more resembles a street fair, with happy crowds thronging the closed-off streets. It sports some 60 vendors, with street performers and special events such as demonstrations by local chefs and artists, as well as authors signing their books.
A trolly runs up and down the main streets, so tourists staying at local hotels don't have to worry about finding their way around or parking. Cal Poly students are usually on hand, offering produce, chocolates and other foods they have made or grown.
You can find markets in from San Miguel to Santa Maria. For a list with times and locations, visit http://tiny.cc/markets156.
Yesterday's Vineyard Kids Are Today's Winemakers
Eric Ogorsolka at Zenaida Cellars is part of a trend -- young second- and third-generation family members who grew up in Paso Robles vineyards and are now starting their own wineries.
A graduate in biology from nearby Cal Poly, Eric recalls coming home after class and working with his dad to design and plant a 60-acre vineyard in the late 80s.
Zenaida Tasting Room
After graduating, he took oenology courses from the UC Davis extension program and landed a job with local legend Ken Volk as a cellar rat at Wild Horse Winery, “doing whatever needed to be done.”
More experience working at Kendall Jackson Winery gave him the confidence to take over a corner of the family barn and start making his own wine, producing his first official vintage in 1998.
As he honed his winemaking skills, he progressed from creating self-styled “butter bombs” to bright, refreshing whites made in stainless steel tanks, such as his 07 ZC White Estate Cuvee.
His reds include sophisticated blends such as the ‘06 Zephyr, made from Zinfandel, Syrah and Viognier. “I tried blending both grapes and wines, using co-fermentation,” he explained. His risk obviously paid off, since the vintage is now sold out.
You can still buy his personal favorite, though, the ‘06 Estate Syrah. And he’s trying his hand this year with his first venture using off-property fruit, a new Rhone blend called Wanderlust.
As a biologist, Eric naturally became interested in sustainable farming practices. “I started making my own mulch to get away from using synthetics that were killing the helpful microbes in the soil,” he said. “We even recycle the stems and skins, and we use our gray water in the vineyard.”
Winemaker Eric Ogorsolka
Eric believes that his eco-friendly practices are not only good for the environment but also make his wines taste better.
Does he also believe that passion for the grape growing and winemaking may be genetic. “My kids are out there in the vineyard right now,” he grinned.
Zenaida Cellars Tasting Room is open daily from 11am – 5pm. at1550 Highway 46 West, Paso Robles, CA. Call (805) 227-0382 or (866) 936-5638.
Ancient Peaks: Wines and Old Timers and Bears, Oh My!
New tasting rooms in the Paso Robles area are rising up faster than bubbles in a glass of sparkling wine.
ironically, one of the newest has roots that go back to 18th century missionaries.
Ancient Peaks is located in Santa Margarita, a hamlet abut 15 miles south of Paso Robles that is known for the popular restaurant The Grange,featured recently in the New York Times (see link at end of article).
As you exit the 101 onto Highway 58, just north of the Cuesta Grade. you can almost feel your blood pressure sinking.
Margarita Vineyards
To give credit where it's due, this is not the first time someone thought of growing grapes in this charming location.
Ancient Peaks wines are made from fruit grown in the historic Margarita Vineyards, which are located on the Santa Margarita Ranch.
Dripping with historical significance, Santa Margarita Ranch was actually part of the Mexican Land Grant, and the first grapes were originally planted in 1774 by Franciscan monks. Later the area was replanted by California wine legend Robert Mondavi, according to co-owner Karl Wittstrom, who oversees daily management and operations.
The name ‘Ancient Peaks’ is a tribute to the Santa Lucia Mountains that tower over the vineyard. Numerous microclimates allow for growing a wide variety of quality grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.
At the summit of the peaks is the 06 Zinfandel, which scored 93 points and was voted "Best Value Wine of 2008" in Wine Spectator. It was also touted as "Steal of the Year" in Sunset Magazine.
Fermented in stainless steel and aged in French and American oak, it sells for $16 and is still available. If you want a Zin with a lower alcohol content – so you can drink more than one glass without falling into your plate – try this one. At 13.5%, it’s lower than some other red Zins, which can reach 17%!
The vineyard supplies fruit for other notable wineries, too, including including Domaine Alfred, Four Vines and Rosenblum.
All of the AP wines are reasonably priced around $16, 20% less if you are a member of their wine club. So stop off for some tasting before you head to dinner at The Grange, travel out Highway 58 to view the amazing spring wildflowers, or go fishing in Santa Margarita Lake, where you might see a young bear that has been sited numerous times recently!
For more info on Ancient Peaks, go to http://www.ancientpeaks.com.
To read about The Grange, go to http://tiny.cc/TheGrange
To see the bear, go to: http://tiny.cc/TheBear
Cayucos Beach and Hoppe's Garden Bistro & Wine Bar
Cayucos' Historic Pier
When it’s January and 85 degrees on the Central Coast, it makes you a believer in global warming. It also makes you want to go to the beach.
Hot sun and cold ocean turns strolling along boardwalks and piers into an appetizing experience.
With it’s pounding waves beautiful Cayucos Beach is attracting surfers, fishermen lounging along the pier, and families letting kids run off steam on the warm sand.
Catching Waves off the Pier
After my walk, I head to Hoppe’s, a fine-dining establishment just across the street from the beach. I’d heard good things about it but never visited. I was about to experience the most polite eatery I’ve ever entered, receiving three heart-felt apologies in the first 10 minutes of my visit.
First, I had to wait in line while the hostess completed a conversaton with a young couple who then left. Next, she took a lenghty phone reservation before seating me on the patio, where was apparently still invisible. After 7-8 minutes, a waitress finally noticed me and set in motion the second and third apologies of the day, from both my waiter and the hostess, who forgot to tell him I was seated.
But it was too nice a day to hold grudges, so I just enjoyed the sun-dappled lushness of the garden patio, while awaiting smoked pheasant ravioli with wild mushrooms and baby butter head lettuce salad.
Baby Butterhead Lettuce Salad
It was well worth the wait and the $17 tab (before tip).
Three extra large ravioli, and a profusion of mushrooms and sautéed greens swam in a broth, really more of a delicate cream of mushroom soup. And the generous half-head salad was topped by toasted walnuts and green apple slices. The small assorted warm bread slices came with both butter and hummus for dipping.
After the bread and salad, I wasn’t sure how much of the main course I could eat. As I feared, there was quite a bit left. No problem. The waiter put it in a take-out box, even providing an ice-filled cup to keep it cool in the styrofoam chest in my car I keep for just such emergencies.
Even though I decided against having any wine that day due to the heat, Hoppe’s has a large wine bar featuring 200 selections hand picked by Chef Hoppe, who knows many of the local producers. Find out more at http://www.hoppesbistro.com/index.php
Avila Beach: An old gem with a new sparkle
Although tourists typically head for better-known Pismo Beach, locals flock to the warmer sands at Avila, with a southern orientation sheltered by foothills and a long rock jetty.
The warmer waters of San Luis Creek flow into the Pacific at Avila, providing a natural playground for kids.
You still hear a few grumbles around town about how an oil spill ruined Avila Beach, not from the effects of the spill itself -- Unocal spend millions cleaning it up and donated a pier to nearby Cal Poly for marine research -- but from the redevelopment of this tiny nook into a more contemporary mini-resort. I never saw the original beach, but my father remembers it from when the U.S.S. Hollandia stopped at the Port San Luis to load aircraft onto the carrier during WWll.
We both agreed that while it may not be the original gem old-timers remember, it’s still got plenty of sparkle. A row of little shops, several restaurants, and street carts offer an array of good --, from fresh seafood and snow cones to soft bamboo clothing and bikinis. You can even do some wine tasting at a couple of places on First Street and on San Miguel Street. We decided to skip the alcohol, due to the hot day and our outdoor plans.
For lunch, we chose Custom House, right across the promenade from the beach. A 30-minute wait for the popular outside seating made us opt for a table inside. Our waiter was friendly and my beef machaca was tasty, though it contained more tortilla strips than I’m used to. If you’re going low carb, ask them to hold the tortilla.
A handy tip: Custom House has a beach cam, so you can check out conditions before you head out. http://www.oldcustomhouse.com/beachcam.html
My friend Karen pointed out that Pete's Pierside Café, at the end of the Port San Luis pier (closest to the jetty), now sports a covered eating area with a glass windscreen. Although I’ve not eaten there, she says they have as beer-steamed shrimp, fresh crabs, fish and chips, and the best fish tacos she’s ever put in her mouth -- a most favorable opinion backed up by several reviews on TripAdvisor.com.
Usually in a car or on my bike, I’ve never ridden the cute free trolley that runs through Avila Valley, connecting the beach with other attractions closer to Highway 101. You can even throw your bike on it, if you don’t feel like riding back to the trailhead near 101. It runs 9:00 am to 6:00 pm pn Saturday and Sunday. This is a great option during peak summer hours, when parking is almost impossible if you arrive after lunch. http://www.avilatrolley.org/
After lunch, we checked out a little hole-in-the-wall beach clothing and accessory store that always has fun offerings, the Hula Hut. This trip I picked up a pair of pink flip-flops with a polka-dot bows for a mere $13. Another time a visiting friend found a great bikini there. And if the fog comes in suddenly, you can pick up an Avila Beach hoodie.
Sylvester Vineyard & Winery: Wine, cheese, chocolate and more...
Brian and Elaine Thurmond try vat tasting
Think you’d enjoy some cinnamon and chili-spiked chocolate with a lush Sangiovese Port?
Or how about a reserve Merlot paired with Madagascar chocolate that melts into a harmonizing cherry finish?
If you’re more in the mood for something savory, perhaps a crisp apple-nosed Chardonnay with some rubbed-sage Vermont cheddar?
You can sample these and other adventurous pairings in Paso Robles at Sylvester Vineyard & Winery, which offers five-glass, Reserve-wine flights with cheese or chocolate for only $5 each.
Veteran travelers who’ve enjoyed Sylvester wines on Princess Cruises will be glad to learn they can enjoy a water view with their wine in Paso Robles. No ocean at the winery, of course, but visitors can take their palates and plates outdoors and stroll through the vine-covered pergola to a pair of swans that grace a small lake.
Train buffs might enjoy their samplings more from inside one of the classic railcars on display, including two vintage Pullman sleepers and a dining car.
Klotz-Burwell family from Palo Alto inside train car
Come by any weekend at 1:00 for a tour. If you’re fortunate enough to catch winemaker Jac Jacobs, he’ll enthrall you with the story of how he went from being a nuclear submarine mechanic to an apprentice for some of California’s wine greats, like Mendocino County pioneer winemaker John Parducci and André Tchelistcheff, “the dean of American winemakers” who mentored Robert Mondavi and Louis Martini.
Sylvester winemnaker Jac Jacobs
Sylvester reds range from the Kiara Reserve Merlot – which sells for only $11.25 to wine club members but tastes more like a $20-25 wine – to the 05 Nikiara Bordeaux blend ($32) which earned 87 points in Wine Enthusiast. The 04 Cabernet Franc ($24.95) earned 91 points at the California State Fair. And, the chocolate-loving 03 Sangiovese Port, which garnered 94 points in Wine Enthusiast, is only $24.99.
Join the Flock, Sylvester’s wine club, and receive a hefty 25 percent discount on these great wines, as well as on merchandise in the well-stocked gift shop, located at 5115 Buena Vista Drive, off Highway 46 East in Paso Robles.
Thanks to its partnership with Peacock Cheese, an international gourmet foods importer, Sylvester also offers a unique Cheese Society Membership, which includes two shipments per year in October and February. Each shipment includes two wines paired with a gourmet specialty cheese
Vina Robles: Not Your Grandfather's Vineyard
2008
It’s another beautiful day in Paso Robles, and the grapes in the three Vina Robles vineyards are soaking up the sun.
But look for yourself without ever leaving home, because Vina Robles, one of the most wired wineries anywhere, sports three solar-powered Web cams sited in their manicured vineyards and blue-oak forest.
Wondering what the weather is like at the new Vina Robles visitors center? Or how those Petit Sirah vines coming along? Check it out by going to http://www.vinarobles.com and clicking on “Vineyards,” where you can zoom around among the vines with a click of your mouse.
Vina Robles is not your grandfather’s winery in other ways, too. Along with the superb wines, you can enjoy unique activities such as ballroom dance lessons, take a dog behavior seminar, or relax to cool jazz tones during the summer concert series.
These events take place in and around the new 14,000-square-foot tasting room, a visual delight with its classic California Mission style accented by modern European touches. Soaring interiors, stunning views and a courtyard fountain create the perfect ambiance for a relaxing wine tasting.
While you’re in the tasting room, located at 3700 Mill Road – only three miles east of downtown Paso Robles – you can indulge in complimentary estate-wine tasting, reserve tasting, or even reserve tasting paired with artisan cheeses. In fact, the on-site deli carries a line of gourmet foods – from coffee and spices to sauces and meats.
If that isn’t enough, future plans call for a full-service inn to accommodate guests from around the world who come to visit the fastest-growing wine region in California.
The European flavor of the Vina Robles wines and hospitality comes naturally to the winery staff. Owner Hans Nef and winemaker Matthias Gubler are both Swiss. Nef, a restaurateur and developer, engaged in a worldwide search for the ideal location to grow Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, eventually selecting Paso Robles.
Old world influences can be seen in the restraint of the Vina Robles winemaking, too. Yields are kept deliberately low to concentrate flavor, and grapes are hand harvested and sorted, according to Gubler.
After gentle crushing to retain the Vina Robles hallmark “fresh fruit” quality, grapes are fermented in temperature-controlled tanks. A gentle “pump-over” is used to avoid harsh tannins while extracting optimum flavor and color.
French and American oak is used for the barrels, where malolactic fermentation adds creaminess. But Gulber uses the wood judiciously to prevent the over-oaking that has plagued so many California wines.
Current releases include 2007 Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier, along with a Rose' that has received critical acclaim for its intense off-dry berry flavors and persistent finish. In fact, Dan Beringer rated it “exceptional” in the May 3, 2007, issue of Vintage Experiences, calling it “a rose’ that competes with the best I have had in the last few years!”
If you are in the mood for a bolder wine, try the 04 Cabernet Sauvignon, a gold-medal winner at the 2008 Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo International Wine Competition. This full-bodied Cab offers intense fruitiness balanced with light oak and a medium-long finish. It was also selected for the wine list at one of the top jazz clubs in the country, Blue Note, a cultural institution in Greenwich Village.
Other current offerings include several red blends, such as the 06 RED4, 05 Suendero, and 2005 Syrée, a spicy red with aromas of dark fruit with bitter sweet chocolate, vanilla and a hint of cedar.
You can visit the Vina Robles tasting room daily from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. during the week, and until 6:00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
2007
The lush, hilly landscape along the portion of Highway 46 that runs west of the 101 couldn't be more different from its flatter, drier counterpart to the east.
Although both sides of 101 in Paso Robles boast some excellent wines, the scenery is definitely superior as you enter this rolling countryside that stretches to the Pacific.
The wineries on the west side also contrast sharply in terms of size to their neighbors to the east, which boasts giants such as Eberle and Meridian. Many on the west are owned by single families. Check them all out:
Peachy Canyon Road, Vineyard Drive, & Highway 46 West area
Four Vines Tasting Room is in a great location – a charming cluster of interesting food and wine outlets right at the junction of Highway 46 west and Vineyard Drive.
Plus, it’s next door to a great little bakery, as well as the Rotta tasting room AND Zin Alley. Rotta is “the only remaining family owned original winery in San Luis Obispo County,” and Zin Alley is known for a dwindling 2004 Zin Port, much of which was lost during seismic activity!
We stopped first at the Cider Creek Bakery for fresh-baked bread to go along with the truffled olive oil we bought in Paso Robles. After checking out the gourmet gifts, including an array of no-sugar-added products, I couldn’t resist the “Winemakers make grape lovers” magnet.
Walking around the corner to Four Vines, we literally couldn’t belly our way up to the tasting bar. Not to worry. Hostess Patty Cuello spotted us in the crowd and brought the wine our way! I haven’t had service of that caliber in some four-star restaurants.
Not only is Four Vines full of friendly folks but they are blessed with wicked sense of humor, as evidenced by their infamous Zinbitch-shirts and their motto: Temperance, like chastity, is its own punishment.
For $7 you may select your own Riedel (or Riedel-like) tumbler-style tasting glass – the ones that are shaped to optimize the bouquet, taste, balance and finish. For info on the glasses: http://www.wineglassguide.com/wineglassguide.html.
I opted for a glass with their naughty Zinbitch label over the “Biker” and “Naked” versions. They have the t-shirts for sale, too.
They were serving first their 2005 Naked Chardonnay, a light and fruity refresher uncloaked by oak – or by malolactic fermentation (a second fermentation that gives wine a buttery or creamy taste).
Then, made from grapes around the state, three Zins and a Spanish Tempranillo:
- 05 Sophisticate from Sonoma County, which seemed a bit “hot” to the nose but mellowed out in the mouth ($24)
- 05 The Maverick, a “jam bomb” from Amador County, an old-vine elixir which has the peppery taste some reds develop when grown in the climes further north. Also sports a little Syrah in it. ($24)
- 05 The Biker from Paso Robles, spicy and by far the biggest and boldest of the three Zins
- 05 Loco, a dry, long-tasting wine made from the Tempranillo grape, grown east of Templeton at Tres Cajones Vineyard that would be good with a steak to tame some of those tannins ($38)
What do the words Gem, Rosetta, Quarry, and Zin Stone all have in common?
If you noticed a hard rock theme going on, you’re right.
But it’s not related to music, or even to any mineral quality of the wine. The theme reflects the name of the vineyard and winery, which is called Stacked Stone Cellars – in turn, taking its name from the elaborate stonework that is part of the landscaping.
As I’ve attended various wine festivals over the past year, Stacked Stone seemed to be racing ahead like a dark horse, creating a buzz. So I planned a summertime visit with winemaker Don Thiessen to discover his stony secrets.
Located down lovely Peachy Canyon Road on the west side of Highway 46, Stacked Stone Cellars is a charming destination for more than just wine. On Friday nights, underneath beautiful old oak trees, you’ll find tri-tip barbeque and live music served up with your wine.
You can even rent the delightful grounds, which makes a wonderful venue for parties, weddings and other social events.
But the wine is the main draw. If anybody can lay claim to the phrase “Forgive, father, for I have Zinned,” it’s Don, a builder by trade who decided in 1999 to combine his love of woodworking and fine craftsmanship with his love of wine.
Growing only that quintessential California grape, Zinfandel, he uses the Old World technique of head-pruning – to force the vine leaves to shelter the fruit from the sun – and dry-land farming (no watering). He produced his first vintage of 1,000 cases in 2002.
Don obtains other warm-country varietals from local growers to make a range of reds that includes the following wines we tasted:
- 06 Rosettta, a refreshing blush ($20)
- 04 Gem, a Rhone blend of Syrah and Mourvedre
- 04 Quarry, a “Meritage” or Bordeaux-type blend that uses Cabernet Franc, which is the father grape of cabernet sauvignon. He still has a few cases of his 03 Quarry left, which he says is “unbelievable.” ($25, $35)
- 05 Zin Stone, a Zin blend aged in American and French oak, giving it some pleasing vanilla tones ($15)
- 05 Zin Reserve, a Zin blend aged in 100% French oak ($38
- 03 Porto Robles, a Port-style Zin ($20 for a split)
He also has an 03 Porto Quinta port-style wine made from actual Portuguese varietals, which I have tasted before. It sells for $25, only $5 more than the Proto Robles for a split ($40 for the full), well worth it for the delicious chocolaty taste. No cough syrup this!
Being a builder/designer/woodworker, Don has definite opinions on how strong a role the planks should play in creating taste. At a recent wine event, he did some tast testing of his own. (“On your side of the counter, it’s called 'tasting.’ On my side, it’s called ‘research,’” he quipped.)
Anyway, he compared his Zin Stone Reserve to a neighboring winery’s Zin reserve that was being touted as “aged in 100% new American oak,” an expensive technique that Don thinks backfired.
“When I swallowed, the only thing left in my mouth at the finish was the lumber in the barrel,” he noted. “Too much lumber is oak tea. I thought fruit is supposed to be the main course.”
The tasting is complimentary at Stacked Stone, with the added bonus of being greeted by two big ole golden retrievers who escort you to the tasting room – Buck III and Bailey.
The tasting room is the first building you come to when you enter, on the left. Don’t try to break into Don’s house, like we did before Buck and Bailey put us on the right path.
After driving along winding Peachy Canyon Road with its lovely moss-draped trees more reminiscient of the deep South than California, we made our first stop at tiny Minassian-Young, which has a lovely view of the foothills from its patio.
Our first taste was a 2005 Rhoneceros, not a prehistoric beastie but a blend of three grapes that offers a butterscotch flavor up front, which then melds into a pear taste for the finish. $16
Their 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon pleased my nose first with its "dark earthy tones" and an almost licorice flavor, which they call "cherry fruit and subtle spice." $18
Collen and I both tipped our glasses over the bucket after tasting their blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache. A better bet is their smooth 2004 Estate Zinfandel for $18.
Slightly south of where Peachy Canyon runs into Vineyard Drive sits Opolo Vineyards, which drew a young, boisterous crowd the day we visited. We started with a 2005 Roussanne, a light appley-flavored wine that almost begged for a sunset, patio and a few cheese appetizers. $22
Their 2003 Rhapsody was very good – "absolutely gorgeous," they claim. A Bordeaux blend with "a whole basket of fruit in each sip," it sells for $45.
A delicious 2005 late-harvest dessert Zinfandel rounded out our tasting. Their recommended dessert protocol is "wine, chocolate, wine." I was happy to oblige. $34
A short hop from Opolo is Denner Vineyards, whose tasting room had been open less than a year at the time, a friendly host informed us, as the official vineyard cat "Posie" grazed our legs.
Its mostly Rhone varietals included a newly released 2005 Grenache they described as having, among other flavors, a taste of "crushed rock." $38
What constitutes a crushed rock flavor, I asked? "It's sort of a quarry smell. We also have a wet rock, too," the host said.
They were sold out of their 2004 reds and hadn't released their 2005s yet, so, not being fans of hard rock wine, we moved on, with plans to return on another day.
Just before you hit Highway 46 from Vineyard Road north sits Dover Canyon Winery, which charges a $3 tasting fee for five wines, which they waive if you buy a bottle.
Not to be outdone by Denner's feline mascot, Dover is home to a happy Springer spaniel named "Rebel Rose" who greets visitors.
Crowded and friendly, the tiny tasting room was a fun place. As we sipped a 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel made from an 80-year-old vine ($27) that produced only eight barrels, we chatted with a recent Cal Poly graduate about her senior project, helping a winery in Soledad, Calif., with their marketing. Her solution was to start a wine club! (Why didn't I major in viticulture instead of English, I was thinking.)
We also chatted up a group of gentlemen obviously having a "Sideways" adventure, sending them to the Crooked Kilt, a lively Irish pub in Paso Robles, when they asked for advice on local watering holes.
Their 2005 Zinfandel Reserve, made with 25% Petite Sirah, was smooth. Their description touted "a whiff of campfire smoke" but that escaped my underdeveloped palate. $32
I also enjoyed their 2003 Zinfandel Port (only two barrels produced), which they put into larger bottles "so that it keeps longer." $28
Update: Harmony Cellars '05 Paso Robles Zinfandel ($18.50) made the Sweepstakes Round at the Long Beach Wine Grand Cru Wine Competition in July 07!
If you're looking for a little shopping with your wine tasting, drive further west along scenic Highway 46 to tiny Harmony, Calif, population 17, on the scenic Pacific Coast Highway.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmony,_California
First browse at the Harmony Pottery, where they offer original ceramics, jewelry, soaps, candles, and more. which represents the work of over 150 artists, both local and national. Located in a historic old creamery.
http://www.harmonyca.com/HarmonyPottery
Nearby Harmony Cellars sits atop a hill, where it offers its own small gift shop and fun events throughout the year, such as wine and artisan-cheese pairings. They charge $2 for six tastes; for $6 you can keep the glass. They offer a wide variety of wines, from their Diamond Reserve 2005 Pinot Grigio at $22 to a 2003 gold-medal-winning Cabernet Sauvignon $16.95.
Since I was behind the wheel and we had a bit of a drive back, I didn't taste at Harmony. But I noted that they provide the residual sugar content of their wines, an interesting feature I'd not seen at any other wineries. The sugar ranged from .21 for their Diamond Reserve 2003 Aria, a Bordeaux blend, to 7.0 in their Diamond Reserve Port.
Wineries West of Paso Robles on Highway 46 West
A spring trip along Peachy Canyon Road and Vineyard drive with my friend Colleen had us both ooh-ing and ah-ing, as much for the gorgeous scenery as the wine. Colleen, who had lost custody of half her wine cellar in a recent divorce, trekked up from LA to visit the Paso Robles wineries with me and replenish her stores.
After visiting at Eberle winery on Highway 46 East, we had a great lunch at Berry Hill Bistro on the square in Paso Robles. Post-lunch, we decided to do some tasting on the hilly, lush western side of the Paso Robles wine region. (Click on title above photo to continue reading.)